Simple Methods for Creating Vermicompost in Your Home – Step by Step Guide

Vermicompost, also known as worm compost or worm castings, is a nutrient-rich organic fertilizer and soil conditioner produced through the process of vermicomposting. Unlike traditional composting methods that rely on microbial decomposition, vermicomposting utilizes various species of earthworms, most commonly red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) and white worms (Enchytraeidae), to break down organic matter into a complex form into simple one.

The vermicomposting process begins with the introduction of organic waste materials such as vegetable scraps, fruit peels, coffee grounds, shredded paper, and other biodegradable materials into a worm bin or composting system. The worms consume the organic matter, breaking it down through their digestive processes. As the worms digest the organic waste, they excrete nutrient-rich castings, which are a highly beneficial form of compost.

Vermicast, the end product of vermicomposting, is characterized by its fine texture, dark colour, and earthy aroma. It contains essential plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and micronutrients, making it an excellent soil amendment for enhancing soil fertility and plant growth. Vermicast also improves soil structure, increases water retention, promotes beneficial microbial activity, and helps suppress plant diseases and pests.

One of the key advantages of vermicompost is its ability to release nutrients slowly over time, providing a steady and balanced supply of nutrients to plants without the risk of nutrient leaching or runoff. This makes it particularly suitable for organic gardening, sustainable agriculture, and environmentally friendly landscaping practices.

Step by Step Vermicomposting Guide:

Vermicompost can be used in various ways, including as a soil amendment for potted plants, gardens, lawns, and crops. It can be incorporated into potting mixes, top-dressed onto soil surfaces, or for foliar application or soil drenching. Its versatility and effectiveness have made it a popular choice among organic gardeners, farmers, and horticulturists seeking natural and sustainable alternatives to chemical fertilizers.

In addition to its agricultural and horticultural benefits, vermicomposting also offers environmental advantages by diverting organic waste from landfills and reducing greenhouse gas emissions associated with organic waste decomposition. By harnessing the power of worms to convert organic waste into valuable fertilizer, vermicomposting represents a practical and eco-friendly approach to waste management and soil enrichment.

Part 1: Establishing the worm bin:

Step 1: Choose a suitable location within your home for the worm bin, ensuring it maintains a consistent temperature and moisture level. Avoid placing it near heat sources such as heaters, ovens, air conditioners, or vents. While worm bins typically don't emit strong odours, it's advisable to position them away from main living areas. The optimal temperature range for the worm bin is between 55 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (or 12.8 to 23.9 °Celsius). Consider storing the worm bin in a closet, laundry room, or other storage area. Alternatively, if space allows and odour concerns are minimal, keeping it in the kitchen for convenient food disposal may be suitable.

Step 2: Get a worm bin or repurpose a storage container. Worm bins are pre-made containers for vermicomposting, available at gardening or organic supply stores. Alternatively, opt for a 20-gallon opaque storage container to create your own. This container will hold bedding, food scraps, and worms while controlling moisture and blocking light. Ensure the container comes with a lid, or improvise by covering it with black plastic if necessary.

Step 3: Punch holes in the bin to ensure proper airflow. If you've purchased a ready-made worm bin, it may already have air vents. For a DIY bin using a storage container, use a power drill to create ½ inch (1.27 cm) holes in the bottom, sides, and lid. Aim for around 20 holes overall. Make five holes in both the lid and the bottom, and at least three holes on each side of the bin. These holes won't prompt the worms to escape as they avoid light, but you can cover them with a wire screen or mesh if preferred.

Step 4: Place the bin on supports with plastic underneath. Use two cinderblocks, two pieces of 4 x 4 inch (10.16 x 10.16 cm) wood, or similar items to elevate the bin. Spread a large sheet of plastic in your desired location indoors. Position the blocks on the plastic and place the bin on top of the blocks.

Step 5: Purchase worms either online or from a garden store, with red wigglers being the preferred choice for vermicomposting. African earthworms and composting worms are also suitable options. If local organic gardening or garden stores don't sell worms, explore online options. Typically, worms are sold by the pound, with approximately 1000 worms per pound, which is sufficient to begin a worm bin.

Part 2: Creating the worm habitat:

Step 1: Prepare bedding by shredding newspaper or corrugated cardboard into long strips approximately one inch (2.5 cm) wide. Ensure the bedding retains moisture well, making newspaper and cardboard ideal choices. Avoid glossy paper or paper with ink other than newsprint, as it may harm the worms. Additionally, torn strips of toilet paper, paper towel rolls, or cardboard egg cartons can be used effectively. Regardless of the material, ensure the strips are one inch (2.5 cm) wide. Fill the bin with enough shredded material to reach about eight inches (20.3 cm) in height.

Step 2: Submerge the bedding in water. Before adding the worms, ensure the bedding is moist. This is vital for their survival and respiration. Soak the bedding thoroughly either after shredding it or placing it in the bin. It's preferable to shred the bedding first and then soak it separately for around 15 minutes. Remember, it's better for the bedding to be slightly too wet than too dry. Avoid wetting the bedding until you're ready to assemble the worm bin to prevent it from drying out prematurely and needing rehydration.

Step 3: Place the bedding in the bin. Once the bedding has absorbed water, distribute it evenly at the bottom of the bin, ensuring it fills at least the lower eight inches (20 cm) to provide ample space for the worms. Fluff the bedding while spreading it out.

Step 4: Add a layer of soil on top of the bedding in your vermicompost bin. Worms thrive in soil, so including some in the bin will make them feel more comfortable. Use debris-free soil from outdoors or purchase regular potting soil from a garden store. Spread it evenly over the bedding. Soil provides essential grit to the worms' diet, aiding in digestion. Ensure the soil is moist by soaking it thoroughly with water before adding it to the bin if it's dry.

Step 5: Spread a uniform layer of food scraps over the soil, aiming for approximately one pound (0.45 kg) in quantity. Optimal food scraps include peels, rinds, cores, leaves, and seeds from various fruits and vegetables. Additionally, crushed eggshells, tea bags, and coffee grounds are suitable additions. Avoid adding meat, bones, dairy products, bread, or excessive citrus to the compost. Before adding any material to the vermicompost bin, conduct research to ensure its compatibility. When uncertain about a specific item, verify its suitability before incorporating it into the compost.

Step 6: Shut the lid and allow three days to two weeks for the decomposition process before adding worms. Worms prefer food that has started breaking down, so it's beneficial to let the waste decompose a bit before introducing the worms. Aim for at least three days but avoid exceeding two weeks before adding the worms. If odour is a concern, place the bin outdoors during this initial decomposition phase. Once the worms are introduced, they assist in reducing any unpleasant odours

Part 3: Starting to Vermicompost:

Step 1: Introduce the worms to the bedding by opening the lid of the worm bin and creating a hole in the centre of the bedding. Directly pour the worms into this hole rather than scattering them across the surface. This method mimics their natural habitat, making them feel more comfortable as if they're partially underground. If it seems crowded, divide the worms evenly by creating two holes and placing approximately half of the worms in each.

Step 2: Give about ½ pound (26 grams) of food per day for every 1000 worms. Vermicomposting isn't an exact science, but typically, 1000 worms can handle around ½ pound (226 g) of waste per day. If you anticipate more waste, add more worms to the bin. If you generate excess food some days, store the scraps and add them later, aiming for an average of four pounds (1.8 kg) per week. The worm population in the bin will naturally increase over time, but their reproduction rate varies.

Step 3: Collect your vermicompost approximately six months after starting the process. Regularly monitor the bin to gauge the amount of bedding remaining. Once all the bedding has transformed into compost, it's time to harvest. Push the compost to one side and introduce fresh moist bedding. Gradually remove the compost, ensuring the worms remain in the bin. While six months is a general guideline, compost may be ready in as little as two to three months. For convenience, consider harvesting small amounts of compost periodically instead of all at once.

What materials are suitable for composting in a worm bin? And what materials should be avoided for composting in a worm bin?

Materials suitable for composting with your worms include food scraps such as:

• melon rinds, roots, stems, leaves, cores, husks, seeds, skins, and peels, among others.
• Eggshells (excluding whole eggs), seaweed, and rinsed seashells like oyster shells (excluding shrimp peels)
• Used natural fibre clothing such as old t-shirts, socks, and boxers
• Natural yarn, twine, and string
• Non-glossy paper items like cardboard boxes, newspapers, magazine inserts, most junk mail, and envelopes
• Tea leaves and bags (remove staples), coffee grounds, and filters
• Deceased plants, grass clippings, pine needles, and leaves, ensuring they are free from pesticide residues
• Untreated natural wood and its by-products like wood ash, sawdust, and shavings (excluding coal ash)
• Feathers and animal hair (human, cat, dog, etc.)
• Dryer lint

Items that are not suitable for composting in a worm bin:

• Citrus peels and juice (excessive amounts can increase acidity in the soil)
• Onions and garlic (if they cause odours on you, they'll do the same in your worm bin)
• Meat, fats, grease, bones, or oils (avoid butter, lard, stocks, soups, etc.)
• Plastics and plastic-coated paper (such as glossy magazines)
• Stickers, including those found on fruits and vegetables (remove stamps from envelopes)
• Bread or yeast products (no crackers or cakes)
• Salt, pepper, and other spices
• Milk, dairy, or dairy products
• Cat or dog feces
• Diseased or infested plants
• Treated wood products

Addressing Odour Concerns: Tips for Managing Vermicompost Bins:

Your compost should ideally emit a faintly sweet, pleasant earthy scent when open for feeding, indicating healthy soil. Any foul odour or excessive worm activity suggests a problem. If the compost is overly moist, redistribute the soil and add shredded paper to absorb excess water. If it's too dry, add pureed veggies or spritz with water. Address any infestations promptly, as most can be prevented by freezing scraps for 24 hours before adding them to the bin.

At last, Vermicomposting is a win-win for you and the environment. It's a simple process that can turn your food scraps into nutrient-rich fertilizer for your garden, while reducing your reliance on landfill waste.